NEW ARRIVAL



One and Only, Ziggy Chen, are in store.

Hello.

It is super hot in Tokyo (as usual).

August 4th  birthday flower is Kniphofia uvaria, also known as Torch Lily. The flower looks like a torch, which reminds me of Rio de Janeiro Olympic! The traditional flower meaning for Torch Lily  is “Sincere Mind”.  Oh, what a perfect word for me to introduce one of the most sincere minded brand, ZIGGY CHEN.

I was asked to write about ZIGGY CHEN couple days ago, when the collection arrived at the store. There are so many elements that are hard to figure out how Mr. Chen did it or why he have chose to do it.  That is why I was not sure if I should take this important duty or not. But more I examine his garments, more I realize that this mission is very important for GULLAM. So although I am nervous, I will do my best to show how amazing this collection is. Here I go.

 

First thing you have to know about Ziggy Chen is that his design is juxtaposition of tradition and modern. The silhouettes are very dynamic.

Ziggy Chen. Coat. OM631103. Charcoal .

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29474.html

IMG_8628 IMG_8629

IMG_8861 IMG_8894

Ziggy Chen. Coat. OM631101. Gray

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29478.html

IMG_8634 IMG_8636

IMG_8903 IMG_8916

First time I saw these two coats above, I thrilled. I don’t think you can notice by looking at the photos.  This stripe linings are not printed but each stripe of ribbons are sewn together. These kind of fabrics are usually used for outer shell but ZIGGY CHEN purposely use as a linings. 

Also, as for the second coat, it got piping technique to finish the hem. But! the interesting part is that they are hand sewn. Why? it is definitely easier to sew them on with the sewing machine. I am not sure if its a right answer but I believe that by finishing with the hand, you can adjust the tension of the threads to give deep three dimensional wave-y wrinkles, by purpose.  Which can give rugged elegance to the garment. 

 

Ziggy Chen. Hooded Coat. OM631124. Black

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29482.html

IMG_8641 IMG_8642

IMG_8929 IMG_9069

This is a coat without lining but all seam allowance are hand stitched to the fabric so that no stitches show on the surface. Also the bar tacking used at the welt pocket is an old techniques. I am not sure if there is a machine that does this anymore. So I am assuming that they are also done by hand.

 

Ziggy Chen. Trousers. OM630510. Charcoal Black.

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29431.html

IMG_9193 IMG_9199 (1)

IMG_8951 IMG_8950

Ziggy Chen. Trouser. OM630523. Blue Black

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29468.html

IMG_8952 IMG_8963 

IMG_8958 IMG_8972

Ziggy Chen. Trousers. OM630524. Charcoal Beige

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29435.html

IMG_8657 IMG_8658

IMG_8981 IMG_9001

I have added the photos of the inside of all three trousers. Inside are not as important as outside, cause that is the part people don’t look at. This is the part where a lot of the  brands cut corner. But all of  Ziggy Chen’s garments got beautiful inside that makes us want to flip over and take photos and show them on our blog.  Are these coutures or what?

 

Ziggy Chen. Sweater. OM632004. Black

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29472.html

IMG_8643 IMG_8644

IMG_8749 IMG_8754

Ziggy Chen. Sweater. OM632004. Charcoal Khaki

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29470.html

IMG_8647 IMG_8648

IMG_8770 IMG_8771

Baby cashmere is extremely rare cashmere, known as fiber jewel. Baby Cashmere, deriving from the mountainous regions of Mongolia and Northern China, is available in extremely limited quantities, and got the finest quality in the world. They are not easy to sew, especially because they are super delicate but that doesn’t matter to Ziggy Chen. The tension of the threads is perfect, it gives no pilling. 

 

Ziggy Chen. Shirt. OM1630705. Black

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29476.html

IMG_8558 IMG_8561

 IMG_8580 IMG_8582

Ziggy Chen. Coat Shirt. OM630709. Navy Black

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29498.html

IMG_8600 IMG_8601

IMG_8782 IMG_8792

Ziggy Chen. Layered Coat Shirt. OM630711. Navy

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29492.html

IMG_9028 IMG_9029

IMG_8668 IMG_8663

Ziggy Chen. Layered Coat Shirt. OM630711. Black

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29494.html

IMG_8593 IMG_8594

IMG_8719 IMG_8723

Ziggy Chen. Hooded Coat Shirt. OM630720.Black

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29484.html

IMG_8619 IMG_8621

IMG_8827 IMG_8833

Ziggy Chen. Quilted Coat Shirt. OM630716. Khaki

https://gullam.jp/shopping/29496.html

IMG_9060 IMG_9063 (1)

IMG_8697 IMG_8699

All the techniques are almost beyond human power but the most incredible technique about Ziggy Chen is top stitching. The widths of the top stitches are very constant. Ziggy Chen’s top stitches are as far as I know, number one in the world. Usually at the end of the stitch, it is common to use reverse stitch. Ziggy Chen only use this when the parts need strength, like the patch pockets for instance. But other parts, you cannot find where the thread went. This cannot be done by machine, only by hands. Not only top stitches for outer shell, he use this technique for inside, and THAT is unbelievable! 

IMG_8911 

 

Every time I examine Ziggy Chen’s garments, I find something new about it. He has world’s finest craftsmanship but he does not show off at all. He uses his techniques to create loose and easy garments. They are dramatic pieces referencing the past, while exuding a modern rugged elegance. That is what makes Ziggy Chen so (I’m sorry, I have to use this word) freakin’ special!!

As always, thank you very much for reading ‘til the end. It was an honor and I learned a lot by writing about Ziggy Chen. His factory is not just a factory. They are fashion laboratory, and Mr. Ziggy Chen is the ingenious researcher of fashion industry!

 

Thank you and I hope you all have a wonderful evening!

 

※展示受注会のお知らせ

GULLAMでも人気のブランドincarnation.
日本での展示会(フルコレクション)をGULLAMと提携してお客様に御覧頂ける機会を作らせて頂きました。
日時は下記の通りです。
皆様のご来場をお待ちしております。
(お手数では御座いますが、ご来場には事前登録をお願い致します。
shop@gullam.jp もしくはH.PのContactから御連絡下さい。)
(incarnationのオフィシャルページをシェアさせて頂きました。)

exhibition gullam

incarnation 2017SS collection for GULLAM
下記日程にて正規代理店GULLAM(東京)と提携致しましてincarnation 2017SS フルコレクションを公開致します。
詳細に関しましてはshop@gullam.jpもしくは 03-6416-4700迄お問い合わせ下さいませ。
日程 8月6日土曜日12:30~20:00
場所 PANOF E STUDIO 東京都渋谷区恵比寿南1−14−9 B2
尚、GULLAMへの事前のアポイントがない方はご入場頂けませんので事前にお問い合わせの上ご来場下さいませ。

REMINDER:

We are closed on Wednesday every week. 

     OPEN: Mon- Sat (Wed Closed) 12:30 – 20:00

                Sun & Holidays 12:30- 19:00

 

*** ATTENTION***

We are very sorry about the defect of our shopping page this afternoon. 

本日、14:20 から14:57の間、ショッピングページのカート画面でエラーになる不具合が発生いたしました。上記の障害は復旧いたしましたが、お客様に多大なるご迷惑をおかけしたことを心よりお詫び申し上げます。

 

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